Cornmeal, sorghum (both syrup and grain), pawpaws, pecans, buttermilk, sassafras, sweet potatoes: These became the engines that pushed all of that classic French technique to a purpose on my menus.
On the table were all the ingredients needed to make Mini Apple Pies with Cheese Straw Crust, a clever dessert that combines the all-American apple pie with one of the South’s beloved snacks. The ...